Vast, pure stretches of untouched salt flat landscape
In the heart of the Quebec-Labrador peninsula lies the isolated community of Schefferville, home to approximately 2,250 inhabitants. Once a bustling iron capital, it now stands as a testament to time, with its streets echoing the silence of a bygone era.
This remote town, nestled amidst the vast, desolate beauty of the Arctic, has a unique charm that draws visitors in. Isabelle Nadon, a local who runs a guest house, finds a unique peace here. The mother-daughter duo who recently visited Schefferville were moved by the place, describing it as a place where they touch a thread of infinity.
The town's history is deeply intertwined with the Iron Ore mine, which closed in 1982, leading to the near-closure of the town. Yet, Schefferville is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, a testament to its resilience.
The correspondent's journey to Schefferville was inspired by French ethnologist and geographer Jean Malaurie's expedition to Greenland in the summer of 1950. Malaurie spent a year with a few Polar Inuits in Thule, Greenland, learning their dialect, living in an igloo, and eating raw seal, raw whale, and summer birds.
Malaurie's expedition to Thule, a remote, desert-like Arctic area, was transformative. In June 1951, he and his Inuit companion Kutikitsoq accidentally discovered the construction of the Thule Air Base by the United States, which had been started secretly a year earlier.
Malaurie's experiences in Thule raised awareness about the Inuit way of life. He documented their close relationship with the harsh Arctic environment, their social structures, and their cultural traditions. Malaurie became a strong advocate for preserving Inuit culture and rights, highlighting the impact of modernization and military presence on these indigenous communities.
The construction of the Thule Air Base, now called Pituffik, brought significant changes for the local Inuit population. Displacement, changes in their traditional lifestyle, and the influx of thousands of workers and new infrastructure marked a shift from their subsistence and social patterns towards increased engagement with global geopolitical dynamics and economic forces.
Malaurie's work provided critical ethnographic insights into Inuit life in a region soon to undergo drastic changes due to the Cold War geopolitical context. His work helped document a rapidly changing culture and advocated for Inuit interests amid expanding military activity in Greenland.
Schefferville, like Thule, is a place where confidences are shared, as if deserts bring humans closer to true things. The town, despite its disrepair, holds a unique charm that invites reflection and introspection. As the sun sets, casting the silhouette of the fir trees in a pink and purple evening, one can't help but feel a sense of awe and wonder.
The correspondent's initial plans to travel to Greenland were disrupted due to flight cancellations. However, the unexpected turn of events led to a fascinating journey to Schefferville, Quebec instead. Infrastructure and road network renovation projects are being considered for the town, offering a glimmer of hope for its future.
References: 1. Rottman, C. (2016). The Cold War and the Arctic: U.S. Policy, 1945-1991. University Press of Kentucky.
The correspondent discovered a captivating similarity between Schefferville and Malaurie's Thule, as both remote locations seem to inspire introspection and foster a unique sense of connection, much like a bridge between lives. As the sun sets over the desolate yet beautiful Quebec-Labrador peninsula, one can envision a blend of arts, lifestyle, and travel experiences unfolding, as the town prepares for its 70th anniversary celebration.
