Solo Voyage of 72-Year-Old to Antarctica Lasted 17 Days
Sailin' to the Frozen Frontier | This old dog wasn't ready to hang 'em up just yet, and the chance to visit Antarctica was slipping through my fingers faster than a minnow on a line. My partner, Anita, firmly refused, citing the frigid temperatures as her reason. So, I decided to roll solo on this icy adventure. Snagged a sweet deal on a French cruise line I'd never heard of, Ponant. Small ships, no extra charge for solos, and the itinerary I craved. They offered a single journey across the dreaded Drake Passage, with stops at South Georgia Island, the Antarctica Peninsula, and its neighboring South Shetland Islands.
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I flew in from Houston to Buenos Aires (BA) and spent a few days town, taking it easy, so to speak. Ran across a quaint town in Uruguay called Colonia del Sacramento on a ferry ride across the Rio del Plata. Chilled during the afternoon, checked out the old lighthouse, and noshed on a fantastic lunch before jumping back on the ferry for the ride back to Buenos Aires in a downpour.
Ponant organized a flight for us cruisers from BA to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, nestled on the Beagle Channel in Tierra del Fuego. A remote, chilly town with mountains, glaciers, and an eerie history as an Argentinian penal colony. Stepped off the plane and hopped a bus for a lunch date at Las Cotorras, a picturesque restaurant that served up some delicious grub. Returned to town and found Le Lyrial, our tiny ship, waiting patiently in port. This vessel packed a punch with only 122 staterooms.
Off to the Antarctic, Drake Passage, and Beyond
Set sail on March 4th, headed southeast towards the White Continent, with the Drake Passage looming large. This passage is known for its powerful ocean currents and mammoth rogue waves. I was nervous for the crossing, especially considering the size of our ship. But hell, I had to take this "rite of passage" in stride. The journey was bumpy but bearable. Sliced through the Drake Lake instead of enduring the Drake Shake. Arrived in the calmer Gerlache Strait region on March 6th.
First Encounters: Ice, Zodiacs, and Wildlife Galore
Safety briefings and warm, bright red parkas greeted us during the Drake Passage. The head honcho, Le Commandant, and his senior officers kicked things off with an introductory ceremony followed by a swanky dinner in Le Céleste, the Lyrial's gastronomic restaurant. The crowd was dressed to impress, but this old dog managed to hide my sneakers.
Our first zodiac run went down in Dallmann Bay at the Melchior Islands. Eight of us rocked up in rubber dinghies for a 90-minute journey, gawking at floating ice, sights of sea birds, penguins, and seals. Gave my first toast to the Antarctic gods, and excitement pulsed through my veins like liquid adrenaline. Even though we didn't set foot on land, the excitement of being out in theOpen felt exhilarating.
Going Coastal: Kayaking, Penguins, and Wild Whales
Whipped out a tandem kayak the next morning, 7:30 sharp, and braved the chilly Antarctic waters with an Aussie pal. Our dry suit kept us cozy and dry. Managed to circle our ship and spot a humback whale. Paddled for 90 minutes like our lives depended on it. Joining forces with another group after, trudged ashore at Neko Harbor and got a glimpse of a bustling Gentoo penguin colony.
Gentoo penguins can reach speeds up to 22 mph (35 km/h) underwater and are led by a band of white feathers on their foreheads. Their strong smell never bothered me after several visits to various colonies. These little guys really know how to hustle, hopping out of the water and scuttling over snow and ice to reach higher ground. I took care not to trample on the carefully laid penguin highways.
Instead of digging nests, these penguins lay their eggs on rocky surfaces. The adults take turns incubating, and both parents forage and feed the chicks. The chicks hang out together for protection while their parents are away.
In the afternoon, we sailed to Danco Island. Shuttered down a British Antarctic base back in 1959, but you can still see remnants of the past scattered across the rolling hills and glaciers. Moseyed up a steep snowy path and observed the Gentoo penguins going about their business. They mate for life, and it's a dance as old as time. The male presents a stone or pebble to the female, and if she accepts, they become a pair forever. The couple builds a simple nest and spends 35 days incubating the eggs.
March 8th: Wilhelmina Bay
Managed to take in the breathtaking views of the Antarctic Peninsula, surrounded by towering mountains and glaciers, from our zodiac. Fur seals were plentiful, with their parental units prowling the ocean for food, leaving their young ones behind on land. Antarctic fur seals are some of the most prevalent species of fur seals, and they are found mainly in the southern Atlantic Ocean. Unique from other Antarctic seals, they sport upright bodies and can run faster than humans due to their powerful hind legs.
Got our only peek at a colony of Macaroni penguins on a rocky outcrop, complete with their distinctive tall, yellow crests.
Portal Point was our afternoon destination. This small fjord offered stunning views of mountains and glaciers. Populated by Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins, with a variety of seabirds. Scale an icy track for a 360-degree view of the water, ice, and animals. Impressed by the tranquil climb and the picturesque landscape, painted in shades of blue and white with various iceberg shapes.
Bye Bye Antarctica, Hello South Shetland Islands
Left the peninsula that night and headed north. Next day, we anchored in Admiralty Bay on King George Island, smack dab on the northern edge of the South Shetland Islands. A heavily protected zone packed with marine life and a natural haven for polar expedition ships.
Took a zodiac ride for a couple hours, taking in the sights, glaciers, and mountains. Hopped off for a quick walk to Penguin Island, where Chinstrap penguins roamed free. Stumbled upon the bones of whales and other mammals on the beach and chilled with curious seal pups. The island featured a prominent red volcanic caldera and offered otherworldly views just like the surface of Mars. Couldn't resist the hikes through this otherworldly landscape.
Farewell Elephant Island, Hello South Georgia Island
Up next: Cape Lookout, Elephant Island. This rugged, rocky headland, surrounded by steep cliffs and glaciers, was a navigational landmark for explorers in years past. A harsh, unforgiving land, but it served as refuge for various Antarctic wildlife.
South Georgia Island lay on the horizon. Weighed anchor as we sailed towards Shackleton's homeland, sensing the founder of this adventure with every fiber of my being. Incessant seas and heavy winds forced the Captain to alter his approach, but we made it safely to Grytviken. Founded in 1904, it was once a bustling whaling station, now a key site for the preservation of Antarctica. Visited the South Georgia Museum, which chronicled the history of whaling and polar expeditions, and hit the gift shop for some trinkets.
Braced for biosecurity inspection, and I managed to sneak in some whiskey ashore (for a toast to Shackleton, of course). Wandered the cemetery, feeling the weight of history with every footstep, and toasted the adventurer with a swig of whiskey and a few drops on Shackleton's grave.
Said my goodbyes to Shackleton, the seal pups, and a lone king penguin as we departed Grytviken. Spent the following day in St Andrews, on the north coast of South Georgia. This bay is home to the zaniest penguin party in town: 400,000 King Penguins have flocked here to raise the next generation. The peaceful snow-capped mountain backdrop is a deceiving facade, as life here is hectic, with non-stop penguin and seal action.
This was my fave landing, as I got to hang out with thousands of king penguins who greeted me like old friends on the beach. These birds have a sharp memory and enjoyed studying me as much as I reveled in their company. Bald, orange, grey, black, and white with those black plastic-like feet, king penguins are some of the most enchanting creatures on Earth. Spent hours observing them inspecting me.
Observed a herd of elephant seals lounging on the beach, snorting and snoozing. Saw a rare white leucistic pup, as well as a host of fur seal pups and sea birds, including a lone albatross. Hiked along the beach, crossed a creek to a hillside viewpoint, and marveled at the sights, sounds, and smells of penguin paradise.
King penguins measure about 3 ft (95 cm) in length and weigh around 37 lbs (17 kg). They have a distinctive brood pouch that both male and female use to keep their eggs and babies warm. Surprisingly, they do not build nests. The males and females take turns incubating the eggs, and once hatched, the parents work together to feed and care for the chicks.
Waved goodbye to the penguin colony and boarded the zodiac for a ride around Gold Harbor. Couldn't compare to the adventure earlier that morning.
Departed South Georgia and set sail for home the following day. Endured rough seas, sick passengers, and a 4-day journey across the South Atlantic. Saw some marine life along the way, including whales, seals, and birds, and spent my time eating, drinking, journaling, and snapping pictures.
Arrived in Buenos Aires port and soaked up the sights of the city, spent some quality time with my Aussie friends, and hit the road for the airport and my 9 pm flight back to Houston.
Le Lyrial: A Tiny Taste of Luxury
Le Lyrial delivered us to the Antarctic in style. This charming ship took us on a 3,640 nautical mile journey, with top-notch service to match a five-star hotel's finest. The ship was only 466 ft (142 m) long, with a 59 ft (18 m) beam, and a 15.3 ft (4.7 m) draft. It covered 15 knots even with winds of 40 knots. The BYOB policy was a major perk, and the French cuisine was delightful. Too bad about the solo supplement, but the views made up for it.
The ship was equipped with two restaurants. Dinner was served at the Le Céleste gastronomic restaurant, where silverware, napkins, and cloth tablecloths ruled. Dinner was served from an extensive menu offering soup, starters, mains, and desserts, with various choices for each. Drinks and alcohol were included in the fare. Breakfast and lunch were served at La Comète grill restaurant, and room service was available 24/7. Service staff hailed mostly from Indonesia, with Filipinos handling the ship's operational duties.
Met some fascinating people on board, including an heiress to the Heidsieck champagne company, a retired French diplomat, a Tahiti real estate mogul, an international politics student from Germany, two camera-wielding Germans, a Belgian gentleman who had recently returned from the Maha Kumbh, and a spunky 78-year-old Australian grandmother who tackled every challenge like a boss.
Two expedition outings each day, mid-morning and mid-afternoon, with 16 talented expedition guides on board. Got my hiking boots dirty and boxers wet on this adventure. Live music and dancing filled the evenings, along with educational lectures on local ecology and history.
Little-Known Facts about Antarctica
Boosted to share some lesser-known facts about Antarctica while we're here.
1. Used to be a lush rainforest
- Millions of years ago, Antarctica wasn't a frozen wasteland, but a verdant rainforest with trees, ferns, and diverse wildlife. Fossils reveal lush ecosystems that thrived before the continent drifted to its current polar position.
2. Hides over 400 subglacial lakes
- Beneath the miles-thick ice sheets, there are over 400 subglacial lakes, such as Lake Vostok, which has remained sealed from the surface for millions of years. These lakes may harbor unique microorganisms adapted to extreme conditions, offering clues about potential life on icy planets.
3. Home to active volcanoes
- Despite being covered in ice, Antarctica has active volcanoes, including Mount Erebus, one of the southernmost active volcanoes on Earth. Its iconic lava lake and persistent volcanic emissions make it a must-see.
4. Dry valleys similar to Mars
- The McMurdo Dry Valleys are among the driest places on Earth, with almost no precipitation. Their harsh conditions and Martian-like landscapes attract scientists interested in astrobiology.
5. The windiest continent
- Antarctica experiences some of Earth's strongest and most persistent winds, with katabatic winds reaching speeds over 200 mph (320 km/h). These powerful winds form when cold, dense air flows down slopes under gravity.
6. No official time zone, but research stations use their own
- Because of the lack of permanent residents, Antarctica technically doesn't have an official time zone. However, research stations from various countries follow their home country's time or the one closest to their base location.
7. Over 60% of the world's freshwater is stored in Antarctica
- The Antarctic ice sheet holds approximately 26.5 million cubic kilometers of ice. If the entire thing melted, sea levels worldwide would rise by about 230 ft (70 m), flooding many coastal cities.
8. It's the largest desert in the world
- Antarctica receives less than two inches (50 mm) of precipitation annually, making it the coldest, driest, and windiest continent on Earth. Some parts have not received rain or snow for over two million years.
9. It hosts unfrozen lakes
- The ice fields conceal over 300 unfrozen lakes, like Lake Vostok, which has remained isolated from the surface for millions of years. The slow climate feedback loop beneath the ice sheet may contribute to potential habitat for life.
10. The continent sports numerous rare species
- Antarctica supports a unique and vulnerable ecosystem, with seals, whales, penguins, and seabirds adapting to the harsh conditions of the frozen continent. It's essential to protect this remarkable place so future generations can appreciate its beauty and learn about its importance.
- My upcoming travel plans include an adventure-travel experience sailing to Antarctica, as I've managed to securing a solo spot on a French cruise line called Ponant.
- As I delve deeper into the lifestyle of the Antarctic region, I'm excited to explore the incredible diversity of wildlife, from penguins and seals to whales, all thriving in this stark, yet striking landscape.
