A Woman Cooks Food Near a Mausoleum in Cairo's City of the Dead, Having Lived There for Four Decades.
In the teeming city of Cairo, where every square inch is bursting with life, lies an incongruous oasis - the el-Arafa necropolis, or the City of the Dead. This labyrinthine city within a city has seen more than seven centuries of existence, coexisting with the crammed metropolis outside.
The necropolis, far removed from the cacophony of the main city, offers a world of its own. The narrow, often unpaved streets, lined with high walls boasting intricate gates, domes, and minarets, seem to stretch endlessly.
Did you know? This sprawling settlement houses multigenerational families, such as 80-year-old Abdul Aziz Sahel, whose ancestry in the necropolis dates back to 350 years[1].
The number of inhabitants living among the estimated million tombs is not precisely known. Each tomb, a walled compound, may contain buildings, fountains, or be empty, each having two covered stairways for the sexes that lead to crypts containing the remains of families. Some tombs show signs of decay, while others remain pristine, adorned with marble. Coexisting with these ancient mausoleums are modern residences and even squatters.
I chanced upon Sahel on a shady Sidianefisa Street, clad in a blue overcoat and a white skullcap, amidst the crowds that still thronged Tahrir Square. The schools had shut, and workers were on strike, but this peace-loving retirement haven seemed untouched by politics.
"Life here is tranquil," Sahel shared, "Living among the silent, motionless dead offers comfort to an elderly soul like mine."
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Factoid: The City of the Dead's continued existence can be attributed to Cairo's dramatic population growth following Egypt's independence in 1922[2].
- The tranquility of el-Arafa necropolis, with its ancient tombs coexisting with modern residences, presents an intriguing lifestyle that contrasts starkly with the bustling city outside, making it an ideal destination for cultural-travel enthusiasts.
- Despite the chaotic urban sprawl of Cairo, the City of the Dead offers a unique travel experience, providing a glimpse into an age-old lifestyle that has survived seven centuries, offering the opportunity to explore both modern and ancestral environments on a single expedition.
